Dar es Salaam

Cycling

Cycling around Dar is possible but can be difficult and scary. You should be comfortable with cycling in high-congestion areas where cyclist are often low in the food chain. Tanzanians have little patience when driving and in their mind any vehicle smaller than theirs is responsible for getting out the way. Cycling on teh Msasani Peninsula is less bad than in more urban areas. Wear a helmet and hone your defensive cycling skills.

UWABA, the Dar cyclists' association, is uniting cyclists to lobby for better or any bike lanes, traffic safety, and to improve the image of cycling. At the moment cycling is associated with poor people who can't afford motorised transport and middle-class Tanzanians complain that their reputation will suffer if they are seen on a bike.

Some local tour groups offer guide bicycling tours around the city. This is a good way to get further afield and interact with the locals. One company that offers bike tours in Dar is Afriroots - they have both 'Dar reality Tours' and Sunday tours that include a delicious lunch. Sign up for the Sunday tours on the previous Thursday. Their email is [email protected]

For a countryside cycle trip, the Pugu Hills Nature Centre 12 km. from the international airport 0754 565 498 is a good opportunity, but you need to come with your own bike and make a booking if you plan to visit the place (http://www.puguhills.com).

By taxi

There are no formal taxi companies in Dar-es-salaam nor are there any contact centers reachable the 24 hours of the day or at any time. Taxi drivers are not associated to any public transport company they run their own business but they are regulated by the government. Look for white license plates and a taxi number painted on the side. Taxis also have official receipts. The cars have a recognizable paint job and always stay parked at specific points across the city in great numbers, some few of them even during the night, but can only be reached via personal mobile phones. Taxi fares are not fixed.

During the night, taxis are still available, but they remain at their usual corners around the city but can only be reached via their personal mobile phones. Since most streets outside city center and even within lack totally of any type of light source it is totally recommended against to walk to those corners where the taxis stay during the night, then it implies an unreliable service as only if the taxi driver that is usually contacted by the tourist is around can he get a service during the night, therefore risking getting stuck at either, the rented apartment or even worse at any other location around the city specially if it's not a popular night destination.

A price must be negotiated before your begin traveling, or the price will be considerably higher once you reach your destination. It is not customary to tip your driver. While there are many friendly and honest drivers, some will try their luck and quote an outrageous price to anyone who looks wealthy. Even if you can't see another taxi around, don't agree to it. Another taxi is sure to be just around the corner. It is quite practical to begin walking in the direction you want to go. You'll either find one on the side of the road or one will drive past. Cars owned by drivers are often maintained at a high level; taking a smooth air-conditioned trip around Dar is entirely possible if you know the right driver!

If you plan on hiring a taxi for a long journey, inspect the quality of the tires, which are often extremely worn.

Don't hesitate to tell the driver to slow down. "Pole Pole" in Swahili.

To/from the airport to/from the city center - the average price is 15000 Tzs. This can sometimes be negotiated down, especially if you pay in USD.

To/from city center to/from Msasani Peninsula - should run about 7,000 Tzs, more commonly 10,000.

For a small premium, you can reserve a taxi for the whole day. This can convenient if your visiting a number of places and doing some shopping. You should be able to get it for 30000 Tzs.

By car

Car hires can be organized through most hotels. Tanzanians drive on the left. Like many developing countries, driving in Dar can be stressful, difficult and dangerous. In addition to potholes, drivers must contend with aggressive taxis and dalla-dallas see below, poor driving skills by western standards, large potholes, uncovered manholes, few if any streetlights at night, and thieves who remove any exterior part of your vehicle while you’re stopped at traffic lights. During the rainy season you must also navigate through water covered roads that may hide deep potholes and around Tanzanians who dart out into traffic in an effort to get out of the rain, often with little children in tow. In conclusion, driving in Dar should be left to those with driving experience in developing countries.

Choice of vehicle

If you're only driving in Dar, you can opt for a sedan which will be cheaper on gas and easier to park. You'll still have to go slowly when you're taking secondary roads, many of which aren't sealed.

Navigation

Driving in the city

Dar's city center is extremely congested from 9AM-6PM from Monday to Friday. There are few traffic lights and the streets are very narrow. It's dog-eat-dog, so offensive driving skills are a must as no one will let you pass if you just sit and wait at stops signs. Streets are crowded with parked and moving cars, SUVs, lorries, scooters, and very muscular men pulling insanely overload carts. People can spend hours stuck in traffic jams, especially around Kariakoo Market.

There are a few roundabouts in the downtown, which the locals call "keeplefties" because they thought that the sign advising drivers to "Keep Left" when entering the roundabouts was the name of this fascinating Mzungu invention. Mzungu is the Swahili word for "white" foreigners. It is not derogatory; more along the lines of calling a white person a Caucasian.

When parking on the street in Dar, find a spot to park, then lock your doors and leave. When you return, a parking attendant wearing a yellow florescent vest will approach you for payment. The fee is 300 Tzs for one hour. The attendant should either hand you a ticket or it will already be on your windshield. DO NOT leave without paying if there is a ticket on your windshield, because the attendant will been forced to make up for the missing money, and probably only earns 3000 Tzs a day at best.

Carjackings are uncommon but opening doors or jumping through open windows to steal valuables is not. Keep your windows closed and doors locked. Reports have arisen of thieves aiming for golden and silver earrings at traffic lights, simply ripping them out. When stopped at traffic lights or parked in unattended locations, thieves have been known to steal mirrors, paneling, spare tires and anything that is not either engraved with the license plate number of bolted to the vehicle's body. Choose your parking spots carefully and don't leave valuables in plain sight. You can either offer the parking attendant a small tip to watch your vehicle, 500 to 1000 Tzs, or find a secured parking lot, especially if your leaving the vehicle overnight. Hotels often provide such parking areas.

Routes

Dangers and annoyances

Tanzanians drive very fast and won't hesitate to overtake in a blind curve or even when there are oncoming vehicles. Always be vigilant.

The number of drunk drivers involved in serious vehicular accidents has dramatically increased in recent months. Although there are laws against driving under the influence, like many other laws they are poorly enforced, especially at night. Exercise caution when driving at night and around popular nightspots.

Anytime a dignitary or senior government official is traveling in Dar, police will stop traffic in all directions to ensure the path from their departure point to destination is clear. This can result in extremely long waits and serious traffic congestion that can take hours to clear. Whether you are driving or taking a taxi, ensure that have factored in these frequent road blocks which could easily add one hour to your travel time to the airport.

NOTE: A senior government official has suggested that the Government purchase helicopters to ferry officials and dignitaries to and from the airport and around town in a bid to reduce traffic congestion. Needless to say that this request was not well received by representatives from the various donor countries and international aid agencies.

If you are involved in an accident with a pedestrian, drive to the nearest police station and advise them. DO NOT exit your vehicle and attempt to resolve the situation even if you are sure it was not your fault. Tanzanians are some of the nicest people you will meet in Africa, but they have been known to take matters, like most of Africans, into their own hands. This is largely due to their mistrust of the police and the belief that anyone with money, e.g. rich foreigners, can buy their way out of a problem.

Daladala

The most common form of public transportation in Dar are mini-vans which go by the name "daladala". These vans paly a specific route with the start and ending point clearly marked on the front of the vehicle. At the main stations Ubungo, Posta, Mwenge daladalas from each route do stop to collect passengers at the same stop at the station. It's fine to ask someone were to find the daladala you're looking for, the newspaper/phonecard sellers are often quite helpful.

You can jump on and off anywhere along the route by simply yelling out, "Shusha!" pronounced SHOO-sha.

Their popularity is due to their ready availability and low cost, about TSh300/= per ride. This varies by route, longer rides such as Posta-->Mombasa are Tsh450/=. The fare is indicated on the outside of the daladala, normally painted onto the door. However, tourists should be aware that drivers will pile in as many people as possible, there is no a/c, some drive like maniacs, and the overall condition of the vehicles is poor, with many frequently breaking down along the way. That being said, travelers should not hesitate to use them for getting around. Watch out for pickpockets as you get into and leave crowded vehicles. Except for early in the day, Daladalas often have change more than most restauraunts/dukas (stores), so its actually often pretty good place to break a Tsh 10,000/= bill.

It helps if you know a little Kiswahili and are at least a little familiar with the city when using daladalas. If you’re trying to get to the city center, hop onto any daladala marked 'posta'. They all go to the central post office on Maktaba/Azikiwe St. Since they tend to be very crowded, you should guard your belongings. This is especially true when you are at large bus stations such as Mwenge.

Boarding daladalas in city centre stations Posta, Kariakoo is a competitive undertaking during the evening rush. It's easier to avoid leaving the city center during the peak of the rush hour, 4:30 to 6:30PM. Often, if there are many people waiting for a certain daladala like the popular Ubungo to Posta and there is a scramble to get on, if you just wait for the next one you'll have no problem getting on, and might even get a seat!

Pickpockets are at work at outlying daladala terminals after the sun sets. Have awareness of your pockets, especially when boarding a bus. Turn that awareness meter up if you are boarding from Mwenge or Ubungo.

The best part of using the daladala system is that locals will often strike up friendly conversations and are always willing to help you with your Kiswahili. Travel by daladala can be quite enjoyable so long as you are on the correct route.

A nice daladala day trip is from town to [Bagamoyo], about a 90-minute trek north of the city. It's easiest to catch the yellow-striped bus from Mwenge. The cost is TSH 1,500 May 2009. From the stand in Bagamoyo you can take a bajaji think 3-wheeled golf cart to historical sites including 13th century ruins, a 19th century German garrison, and a very colorful seafood market on the beach. Getting back to Dar es Salaam, you'll be pushing your luck if you delay much past 5PM.